Timorasso: The Slow White Revolution from the Hills of Tortona (Derthona)
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The 2025 Derthona 2.0 Event
On Saturday, March 29, 2025, the "#Anteprima" event took place at the #Dongione of Carbonara Scrivia, in the heart of the #Tortona area, #Piedmont, in the province of #Alessandria. The press and wine professionals had the exclusive opportunity to taste the latest vintages of #Timorasso wines, seated in a reserved area with service provided by the sommeliers of #AIS Piemonte.
The Renaissance of Timorasso: From Forgotten Grape to a New Italian Wine Icon
#Timorasso, an indigenous Italian white grape, hails from the #ColliTortonesi hills, nestled in the #Tortona area of northern #Italy. It had almost disappeared from the region’s vineyards by the 1990s but has since experienced a remarkable resurgence in the last two decades, largely driven by a new generation of winemakers dedicated to reviving its legacy. This grape variety, once on the brink of being forgotten, now enjoys a renaissance. It’s often compared to the #vinyl records—once relegated to the past, now cherished by collectors and mainstream markets alike for its unique, nostalgic qualities. Similarly, Timorasso was nearly lost to history, with only a handful of hectares left in the early 2000s. However, by 2025, there were over 440 hectares under cultivation and 114 producers bottling this once-forgotten gem of the Italian wine world.
Timorasso's Journey to Recognition
The grape is now part of the #DOC (#Denominazione di Origine Controllata) of Colli Tortonesi, with #Derthona being a sub-zone of the DOC (still awaiting formal approval). The Derthona DOC disciplinare, in place since 2022, strictly regulates the production of Timorasso wines:
Timorasso 100%
Min. altitude varies by municipality
Max. yield of 75 q/ha
Min. dry extract: 15 g/l for Piccolo Derthona, 17 g/l for Derthona, 18 g/l for Riserva
Bottle weight cannot exceed 600g for a 0.75L bottle
Bottling & Release Schedule:
#PiccoloDerthona
→Bottled and released from March, the year after harvest
→ Min. alcohol 12,5% (to be confirmed)
→A youthful, vibrant style meant for earlier consumption
#Derthona
→Bottled and released from September, the year after harvest
→ Min. alcohol 12,5%
→ A more classic style, offering added structure, minerality, and aging potential
#Derthona Riserva
→ Bottled and released from March, in the third year after harvest → Min. alcohol 13% → The most age-worthy and complex version—textured, layered, and built to last
During the 2025 Timorasso tasting, Ukrainian winery Beykush—based on the Black Sea coast—made a noteworthy appearance. Known for its experimental approach, Beykush cultivates Timorasso outside its native Piedmont, underscoring the grape’s growing international appeal and adaptability.
The Versatility of Timorasso in winemaking
#Timorasso is unique in that it expresses two distinct stylistic profiles depending on vinification and age. Some producers may encourage a slight #malolacticfermentation (MLF) to soften the edges while preserving brightness.
Young & Expressive – Modern Style
This style is often associated with younger wines or producers from #Barolo/#Langhe and is characterized by:
→Pale yellow color
→Notes of flint, fresh herbs, white peach, citrus peel, and exotic fruits (unripe fruits)
→Freshness and vibrancy, with medium to high acidity providing clarity and energy
This 'youthful' style reflects the linear elegance typical of Barolo producers (this is my personal opinion), offering a clean, steely/saline-driven expression of Timorasso. It’s perfect for those seeking a refined, refreshing white that highlights the natural vivacity of the grape. This style also tends to highlight Timorasso’s aromatic kinship with #SauvignonBlanc, with more pronounced thiol-like notes (think citrus peel, cut grass, and tropical hints) that are part of the grape’s DNA and aromatic profile.
Aged & Complex – Traditional Tortona Style
This style develops beautifully with age, offering a golden yellow hue and a rich, structured profile. As it matures, the wine reveals:
→Beeswax, acacia honey, and wild herbs (like thyme and chamomile)
→Citrus marmalade, dried apricots, and over time, petrol notes (TDN), reminiscent of Riesling
→Full-bodied, with high extract, medium-high alcohol, and remarkable longevity
This traditional style is the soul of Timorasso—complex, structured, and profoundly cultural-driven. As the wine evolves, its texture becomes rounder and its aromatic profile more layered, expressing characteristics akin to other great varieties like #Nebbiolo and #Vermentino. In particular, the #GeranicAcid present in the more evolved notes of Timorasso evokes the qualities typical of Vermentino, adding a citrusy and fresh accent that enriches the wine’s complexity, offering a fruity and mineral character.
Timorasso: A Unique Expression of Terroir
Timorasso’s success is rooted not only in its ancient origins but also in its ability to adapt and express the #terroir of the Colli Tortonesi. The region's calcareous soils, especially those found in Sant’Agata Fossili, are known for imparting a distinct character to the wine. These soils, which also contribute to the stony richness of #Barolo wines, give Timorasso its unique minerality and elegant acidity, making it stand out among Italian white wines. Moreover, the high natural acidity of Timorasso contributes to its longevity. The wine maintains a remarkable freshness, even after years of aging. This acidity also supports techniques such as extended skin contact, cold maceration, and fermentation in stainless steel or wood, all of which help preserve the grape's purity and freshness while allowing the wine to evolve over time.
The Versatility of Timorasso in Winemaking
Timorasso is a versatile grape that allows winemakers to craft wines in a variety of styles.
Whether fermented in stainless steel for a crisp, fresh profile or aged in oak barrels for more complexity, Timorasso responds favorably to aging on the lees. Many producers also use Malolactic fermentation (MLF) to soften the natural acidity, lending the wine a creamier texture without compromising its freshness and focus. The grape’s natural acidity also makes it an excellent candidate for aging, whether in the bottle or in oak. Wines aged on the lees develop a rich mouthfeel and more complex aromas, with nutty and buttery notes enhancing the wine’s overall profile.
The Future of Timorasso
Timorasso’s comeback is remarkable, rising from near extinction to become one of Italy’s most exciting white wines. Thanks to dedicated winemakers and the support of the Consorzio di Tutela, it has become a flagship wine for the #Tortona area. With its unique freshness, complexity, and aging potential, Timorasso is set to impress wine lovers for years to come. It’s a grape that rewards attention and patience, offering a quiet rebellion in an age of fast trends and instant wines.
*ALL WINES HAVE BEEN TASTED BLIND.
Best of Piccolo Derthona 2024:
Claudio Mariotto (Piccolo Derthona 2024): Medium gold color, delicate yet expressive with ripe fruit notes of apple and apricot, balanced by subtle thyme and slight alcohol. Classic old-style, simple nut great drinkability. Score: 89-90
Massa F.lli Az. Agr. (Piccolo Derthona 2024): Golden color, with a slightly funky character, indicating possible skin maceration. Rich fruit notes of mature apple and apricot, good structure, and minerality with a slight rustic edge. One of the more classic styles. Score: 88
Best of Derthona 2023 :
La Colombera Santacroce: Gold in color, with a pronounced nose of ripe fruits such as apricot and ripe melon, very open and expressive. The palate is concentrated and linear, showcasing a very classic style. Score: 90
Romanzo del Vino: Gold with subtle notes, floral, almond, apple, peach, and apricot, with a hint of licorice and herbs. Well-balanced complexity and freshness, with a final iodine note. Score: 92
Best of all—Oltretorrente Az. Agr.: Gold, oily texture, with citrus and hydrocarbon notes. The palate reveals nice fruit, with apricot and floral undertones, offering structure and pronounced minerality, with a clean and spicy finish. Score: 94
Fontanafredda: Balsamic, with slight volatility, herbal and fruity aromas. The mouth is filled with ripe fruit flavors, such as apple and dried fruits, with light tannins. Score: 90
Tenuta Garetto s.s.: Nettle, aromatic herbs, fresh fruit, concentrated and full of sapidity. Score: 90
Ezio Poggio Winery: Yeast, cherry blossoms, and almonds, though lacking a bit of body, it remains very classic but somewhat anonymous. Score: 90
Cantine Volpi: Thiolic and aromatic herbs, thyme, sage, white currant, and elderflower, with a beautiful salinity and mature citron notes. Concentrated on the palate. Score: 92
Casa 'Al Mat: Deep golden color, intense fruit (peach), with a maritime and very sapid character, citrus notes, and an old-style but opulent profile. Score: 91
Best of Derthona 2022 (Riserva)
Ezio Poggio Winery (Riserva 2022): Notes of peach, sage, and thyme, with beautiful concentration and minerality. The wine is long, linear, and delicate, showing ethereal qualities. Score: 94
Oltretorrente Az. Agr. (Riserva 2022): Mature thiolic notes, plum, thyme, sage, and slight hydrocarbons. Complex, fine, and elegant, with a spicy, peppery finish. Score: 94
Tenuta Garetto s.s. (Riserva 2022): Fresh and aromatic nose with herbs like mint and sage, complex thiolic notes, light hydrocarbons, and sugar cane crystals. The palate is concentrated, with a direct and vertical expression. Score: 92-94
Cantine Volpi (Riserva 2022): Green apple, sage, mint, and thiolic notes with a touch of nutmeg. A big citrus profile with mature citron and mint, giving the wine a fresh, complex style with slight sweetness (from MLF or oak). Balanced acidity. Score: 92
Marina Coppi (Riserva 2022): A fruity nose with plenty of spice and minerality, excellent structure and freshness, with maturity and acidity well-balanced. Score: 90
Claudio Mariotto (Riserva 2022): Clean nose with herbaceous notes, white currant, and white plum. Score: 90
Pomodolce (Riserva 2022): Quince and overripe fruit, light lees character, very aromatic and fruity. It’s a rich and opulent style, but lacks finesse and feels a bit coarse. Score: 89-90
Iandolo Francesco Az. Agr. (Riserva 2022): Ripe peach and apricot fruit, floral notes, well-balanced, with a touch of minerality, salty edge and balanced acidity. Score: 89-92
Vigneti Boveri Giacomo (Riserva 2022): Walnut shell and ripe fruit aromas, lacking character, with a mature thiolic note reminiscent of bell pepper. Good structure and minerality but misses refinement. Score: 89
Cascina Giambolino (Riserva 2022): Strong herbal and chestnut honey nose, showing a style that is slightly rustic. Score: 89
Azienda Agricola Fiordaliso (Riserva 2022): Notes of pirazine, hydrocarbon, and vegetal characteristics. The wine remains round and mature but lacks some freshness. Score: 89
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